A tale of two cities

From Berlin General

It's been a while since my last post. Indeed, anyone pondering my whereabouts could be forgiven for assuming I'd gone into hibernation. The past few months have been hard, cold and barren. Grey skies dulled out the sunlight, inhospitable temperatures dissuaded many from venturing outside, and the streets I know so well were replaced by an icy tundra which negated most forms of travel not involving the use of grappling hooks. This was winter in Berlin.

Complaining about the weather is a great British tradition renowned the world over, and while I'm not usually one to indulge clichés, old habits do sometimes die hard. I've now lived in Berlin for a total of twelve months of two periods. For the majority of that time I have rarely experienced anything but sun, joy and a vibrant city. On any given night or day, throngs of people from all around the world who have made this their home could be seen enjoying the culinary and cultural charms on offer, not to mention the nightlife. The past 3 of those months, however, have been an entirely different experience.

It began one weekend towards the end of November. Temperatures had been dropping for a while, but no-one expected the sudden snow storm that fell on weekend revellers in the early hours of that Sunday morning. These warning signs were quickly forgotten in the rush to the Christmas period and the festivities of the New Year, though this only served to make the change seem more sudden. Once the last firework had faded, it left behind a monotone sky smothered with a seemingly impenetrable quilt of brooding cloud. The clouds brought with them snow, the initial joy of which disguised the troublesome icy landscape that was to be its legacy. Despite their best attempts, the authorities failed to deal sufficiently with this menace. The grey in the heavens seemed to drain the colour from the people and the streets below, robbing the city of its very lifeblood. This was not the Berlin I knew.

I soon began to realise just how much my joy at living in Berlin relied on being outside. No longer could I ride my bike gleefully around the parks and sights; even if the ground had been more suitable, the monuments and greenery seemed to have taken on a deathly hue which robbed them of any aesthetic value. The depression seemed to have got to everyone. Bar rush hour and the Saturday shopping crowds, the city had become nothing short of a ghost town. Those who did tread the streets did so out of necessity, not due to any voluntary decision. But even the S-Bahns these winter zombies piled onto seemed more empty than ever. The phone lines were as good as dead - even if there was somebody still alive, there was little use us trying to persuade each other to venture outside.

It seemed to last for years, but then suddenly, as quickly as it had come, the gloom was gone. A ray of sunlight tentatively pierced the cloud cover, almost as if it were afraid of burning the faces of the undead below who had become so unaccustomed to it. The gaps in the cloud quickly filled with blue and, in the space of a weekend, the winter was gone. Traces of its icy touches remained for a couple of weeks, but the golden rays from above had brought with them home, and we knew it was almost over. People rushed from their homes to claim back their city from the forces of nature which had lain siege to it. Restaurants and cafés reinstated their outdoor seating, and slowly it began to fill with the hungry once more. People hungry not just for the fare on offer, but for life as they once knew it. The grey skies and biting winds began to seem like a fading nightmare, a bad dream which paled in the daylight.

The daylight has now regained its hold on Berlin, though for my part I shall find it hard to banish the foreboding memories of my first winter in the city. Whilst I had expected a colder climate to that in which I grew up, nothing could have prepared me for the complete change which swept across the capital, draining its vibrance and that of its inhabitants. Twelve months, and this city continues to surprise me.

But that, of course, is exactly why I love living here.



Thanks to Bella for photos! http://nordicflames.blogspot.com http://berlinleben.blogspot.com

Albums of the Year 2008

A little late, but here's my lowdown on the top 5 Albums of 2008. There are some albums I haven't actually got hold of yet, so they won't get a mention, but this is probably a blessing in disguise as the past year has been a very strong one in terms of new rock and metal music. Enjoy.

1. Avantasia - The Scarecrow | The first two albums from Edguy singer Tobias Sammet's solo project formed an ambitious and epic power metal opera which starred myriad legends from the genre, including Hansi Kürsch, Kai Hansen, Alex Holzwarth and Michael Kiske. Although the project itself was an incredible feat, save for a few stand-out tracks, neither album offered anything different which hadn't already been repeated ad infinitum by other artists. The Scarecrow is Sammet's coming-of-age, an insightful masterpiece combining the best elements of his earlier projects with a darker, more evocative side and a sound which, no doubt in part due to the input of producer and guitarist Sascha Paeth, pushes the boundaries of modern metal. Followed up by a spectacular arena tour in the summer, this is the album that will define the future of the genre.
   
2. Amanda Palmer - Who Killed Amanda Palmer? | Since the first Dresden Dolls album was released in 2003, singer and pianist Amanda Palmer has come on in leaps and bounds. The band's second album, Yes, Virginia showed more complex songwriting and a greater variety to Palmer's vocals, and her first solo effort continues this trend. The almost complete absence of drums reduces the madcap side of the Dolls' work, and allows Amanda's voice and piano more freedom, giving her the chance to write closer to the heart without entirely cutting out the theatricals. In a sense, the songs seem more mature, despite the fact that many of them were written before the Yes, Virginia material. All in all, this album displays a more intelligent and self-aware side of Amanda than we have seen before, whilst maintaining the unhinged edge to her voice and persona which made her so great in the first place.
   
3. Battle Circus - The Half-Light Symphony | A very promising debut from a band with one of the most pretentious names in history. The New Zealanders have been making their name on tour around Europe with Amanda Palmer, displaying excellent musicianship without ever taking anything away from the actual music. As it happens, the moniker couldn't be more appropriate - the album tempers a perfectly constructed 45 minute vision of nuclear holocaust with the sinister wit of a clown laughing as the big top burns. Refreshing and thought-provoking, with the right promotion this band could go far.
   
4. In Flames - A Sense of Purpose | If 2006's Come Clarity signalled the return of the Swedish metallers to their peak after 2 disappointing albums, then A Sense of Purpose has simply served to continue the trend. Although perhaps not as powerful in its statement as its predecessor (to older fans this will almost certainly be more of a grower than an immediate favourite), it has seen the band continue to steamroller across Europe, headlining major festivals along the way. In places it hints at a return to the softer, more mainstream approach which earned such critcism on Soundtrack to Your Escape, but these tendencies are tempered by a quality of riff and level of sophistacation which that album lacked. It seems to some extent that the band are still trying to perfect a new sound without pulling away too much from the roots that got them to where they are today, and if that's the case, this is definitely a step in the right direction.
   
5. Van Canto - Hero | If the world's (probably) only "hero metal a-capella" band hadn't made an impression on the European metal scene before, this album, coupled with a stunning live performance at Wacken Open Air 2008, should make people sit up and take notice. Made up of one drummer and five vocalists, share the singing of lyrics and instrumental parts between them, the record consists half of well-written and unashamedly cheesy power metal written by "lead guitarist" Stefan Schmidt, and half of covers of well-known classic metal and rock songs which showcase the band's talent. It's refreshing and ever more rare these days to see a band take such a radically different approach to music, and to hear them pull it off so well is even more satisfying. The only worry is not with the material itself, but that this could be an indication that bands feel they have to go to this kind of extent to get noticed, a situation which could lead to groups like Van Canto enjoying very short careers before being dropped when their "novelty value" wears off. But if anything can be done to prevent this, Hero has put Van Canto in the perfect position to take action.
   

Special Mention - Guns 'n' Roses - Chinese Democracy - I've not heard this myself yet, but it would be remiss of me to not congratulate Axl Rose (albeit with a smattering of sarcasm) on the release of his implausible maserpiece. After 14 years and 3 different line-ups, the man gets all he deserves with this. Read into that what you will...

10 things to do in Berlin

Happy New Year! I realise it's been a while since I last updated, and even longer since I've actually written anything about Berlin itself; I have to admit I've been somewhat busy actually being in it. But just for you lucky, lucky people, I've cooked up something special. Behold, a list of 10 great things to do in Berlin!


These are just 10 of the things I've enjoyed doing in my first few months here. If this all sounds terribly appealing, I would like to take this opportunity to inform you that you should live here. Just like everyone else :)

1. Cycle - Berlin is one of the best cities in the world to cycle in. Until a few months ago, I was terrified of the two-wheeled monstrosities, but in just one afternoon of biking around the main tourist sights, I was hooked. Thousands of cyclists pedal frantically (or annoyingly casually) around Berlin everyday, sometimes seeming like a law unto themselves, and whilst sceptical at first, it soon became apparent that joining them was far preferable to trying to survive them as a pedestrian. My cycle route to work now takes in the cathedral, the Brandenburg gate, a couple of winding paths through the giant Tiergarten park and a picturesque stretch of the River Spree, and I wouldn't change it for the world.
   
2. Be amazed by the transport system...then get lost on it - As in any major city, the inhabitants of Berlin rely heavily on public transport to get around. The difference between here and, say, London, is that here, it actually works. At practically any time of morning, noon, or night, there are S-Bahn, U-Bahn, tram or bus routes running to practically all destinations withing the inner city borders. Once you've familiarised yourself with the U- and S-Bahn network plan (or beforehand, if you're feeling particuarly daring), you can start to abuse this system by simply hopping on a tube for a while and seeing where you end up. It's a great way not only to discover new parts of of the city, but at the same time to immerse yourself in the lifeblood of Germany's vibrant capital.
   
3. Catch a show - The complex array of threads which make up Berlin's colourful history have resulted in the city being extraordinarily open to a wide variety of cultural entertainment. Since my arrival in August the British Ukelele Orchestra have swept through town, while the now-legendary Blue Man Group have continued their epic run at the BlueMax Theatre. In addition to this, the list of diverse rock groups to play across the city is no less befits a major capital. For those who prefer their shows a little more sophisticated, there's always a good selection of jazz concerts on any given night, and the Berliner Ensemble offers a different Bertolt Brecht play each month, amongst other high-quality pieces.
   
4. Have Sunday brunch - Brunch in Berlin is something of an institution, especially in the suburbs which have boomed since the fall of the wall. Every Sunday (and, in many places, every Saturday too), cafes and bars in Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg, Neukölln and Prenzlauer Berg open from 11 am to offer their sumptuous buffets to throngs of hungry locals. The best offer an all-you-can-eat buffet encompassing between 20 and 40 breakfast and lunch dishes, including varieties of eggs and omlettes, continental-style rolls with hams and cheese, a selection of salads and pasta dishes and 4 or 5 hot main courses, often including lasagne or some kind of cheese and vegetable bake. Prices range from 5-13 €, and for the more popular restaurants it might be advisable to book, but for what could well be the only meal you'll need to eat all day, it's well worth it.
   
5. Go out drinking - Berlin has a reputation as one of the party capitals of the world, and not without good reason. The healthy backpacker and exchange student population has contributed to a boom in this area as the city has modernised, and the culural diversity offered around the different districts has ensured that there's something to suit everyone's tastes. Electro and techno are the biggest crowd-pullers, with clubs such as Watergate achieving worldwide recognition as pioneers of this scene in the early nineties, though Berlin is also establishing itself as a hotbase for indie and alternative music.Whatever your music of choice, with no restriction on opening hours, the party will always go on all night long, wherever you are.
   
6. Something new - Over the years, Berlin has seen so much that almost nothing seems unusual here any more. Nearly anything you or anyone else can think of exists or can be done in Berlin, and if it doesn't already exist, then it probably won't be long before it does. Since moving here, two of my personal favourite haunts have been the Ludothek just around the corner from my flat (a cafe dedicated to playing board games, with an astonishingly wide selection) and the poetry evenings held by Rakete 2000, a local light-hearted group who intersperse their delightful musings on life with amusing musical interludes. If I'd been told before moving here that I'd be spending my time listening to poetry and playing board games, I'd probably have questioned my decision, but the lifestyle in Berlin embraces and imbues in people the desire for the new to such an extent that I now can't imagine my life without these activities.
7. While away the afternoon in a park - The German capital is blessed with a multitude of parks in which you can pass the time on a summer's afternoon by reading, playing Indiaca, barbequing or simply being. Each of the districts has a park or parks of its own, but the pick of the bunch is always going to be the massive Tiergarten in the middle of the city, which stretches from just past the Brandenburg Gate deep into the suburb of Charlottenburg in the old west. Home to the House for the Cultures of the World and the Reichstag, Tiergarten is a green paradise in which you can escape from the hectic hubbub of city life whilst stil being in the centre of it. And all the trees are exactly the same height, too.
8. Absorb some history - From the modern to the more ancient, history is all around you wheverever you go in Berlin. Not only does the city offer some amazing museums, including the Pergamon, which houses one of the ancient gates of Babylon, but it also bears the scars which tell the tales of some of the most important events of the twentieth century. To live amongst the remnants of the wall, walk streets which still bear the names of some of the most important socialist philosophers and see in day-to-day life the bullet holes from the battle which ended the Second World War is an amazing feeling, and this singular closeness to such incredible events has made Berlin the city it is today.
9. Learn to speak the local dialect - One of the more endearing characteristics of the natives of Berlin is the way they approach their mother tongue. As a northern Englishman often burdened with prejudices based on my own accent, and as a languages graduate, I can't help but be fascinated by Berlinerisch and the way it's often so unintelligible even to other Germans. Also, there's no way of making yourself feel quite as at home in a new place as by blending in with the locals, and in Berlin this is just as much a case of knowing your "Dreiviertel elf" from your "viertel zwölf" as it is of not referring to yourself as a jam doughnut.
   
10. Go to to the market - Berlin's cosmopolitanism is reflected every bit as much in its market culture as in its architecture and restaurants. On various days throughout the week, and even more so at weekends, every little square in every suburb is filled with wooden stalls offering all manner of foodstuffs and clothing. The real fun, however, starts on Sundays, where some of the city's most notable squares become the location for the spectacular flea markets, offering all kinds of trinkets and hidden treasures, as well as modern craftwork and, most importantly, bicycles. And to top it all, the winter season is only ever officially open in Berlin, as across Germany, when the Christmas markets set up and the Glühwein begins to flow.