Tuesday 28 October 2008

Gig Review: Die Apokalyptischen Reiter, Kesselhaus, Berlin, 26.10.2008

From Gigs
From Gigs

There's something strange about German Metal. Of all the places I've been, out of all the metal fans I've met, none seem to have such a penchant for hard music from their own country than the Germans. The view looking in from abroad may be restricted to household names such as the Scropions, or, more recently, power-metal giants like Blind Guardian and Gamma Ray, but there's a lot more too it than that. And it's metal not only from their own country, but sung in their own language, that the Germans really go for. Perhaps it's something to do with the taboo on patriotism since the end of the Second World War, music having been - up until recently and to some extent still today - one of the few outlets for feeling good about their heritage accessible to young Germans. Whatever the reason, German-language metal has a strong cult following over here - and head of that cult are Die Apokalyptischen Reiter.

An imposing name ("The Horsemen of the Apocalypse", in case you hadn't guessed), but nothing less than fitting. If there's one thing Die Apokalyptischen Reiter do well, it's theatricals, and this show was no exception. As a cover of deep red lighting and a thick cloud of dry ice engulfed the stage, a chorus of cheers and cries rippled through the crowd in expectation. Then as if by magic, the blood-red mist parted to reveal the elevated figure of lead singer Fuchs, and the opening riff to Revolution burst out of the house PA. From that point on, it was non-stop. The Reiter rocked through their setlist at a frantic pace, covering all the favourites such as Friede sei mit dir and Reitermania to noisy approval from their followers.

From Gigs

It was clear from the reaction throughout the set just how fanatic most of the audience were about the band, and every opportunity offered for crowd participation was enthusiastically taken up by a long line of metalheads of all ages. Though the small venue lacked the spectacular pyrotechnics on show when I last saw the band at Wacken Open Air 2007, the atmosphere was just as electric, and I sincerely doubt that a single member of the audience went home disappointed (especially not the girl who was invited on stage for the band to sing her happy birthday!). If ever there was a band made for performing live, it was Die Apokalyptischen Reiter. No matter where you're from, whether you like metal, or whether you even understand German, go and see them. Now. For tomorrow could be the end of the world...

Gig Review: In Flames, Columbiahalle, Berlin

From Being a Berliner 1


It's a busy month for gigs in Berlin. On Saturday night, the Columbiahalle was packed for one of the cities most eagerly-awaited concerts, Swedish metal giants In Flames. The posters had been up all over the city for months, and the anticipation was obvious from the crowd reaction when opening act Sonic Syndicate name-dropped the headliners during their set. We arrived just after they had begun, and though I've never found much to make them appeal to me on CD, I have to say I was impressed with their stage performance. Not a single member seemed to ever stop moving as they careered through their set of radio-friendly metal, and the entire band - comprising two vocalists, two guitarists, bass and drums - was tight and note-perfect.

Next up were Gojira, a French metal band and easily the heaviest offering of the evening. Though not the kind of music one would expect to lend itself to live performance, their ominous, apocalyptic chords, driven by artillery-force percussion, left a lasting impression on the audience, as attested by the business of their merch stand after the show.

However, there could be no doubting who the majority of fans were there to see. Over the past few years, In Flames have risen to the top of the European metal scene, headlining festivals all over the continent. Currently touring their ninth studio album, they are arguably a band very much on top of their game. And so as the imposing shadows of the five-piece filled the white screen draped in the front of the stage, accompanied by the opening tones of The Chosen Pesimist, the band's titanic appearance could not have been more apt. And nor could the performance which followed.

From the moment the screen fell away at the peak of the opener, In Flames took the audience on a journey that more than fulfilled expectations. In front of a massive screen giving extra graphic representation to their songs, the band gave a consumate performance of melodic death metal which shows why they are still kings of the sub- genre they played such a great part in establishing. The lack of material from their earlier albums may have been a gripe for older fans, but the strength of the set without these songs served to emphasise how relevant the Swedes remain. Of course, crowd-pleasers such as Pinball Map and Only for the Weak received the usual rapturous reception, but the reaction to the final song, Take this Life from 2006's Come Clarity was more than equal in volume. An exemplary show from one of the leading lights of the modern metal scene.

Monday 27 October 2008

Gig review: Amanda Palmer + Friends, Knaack Klub, 12. October 2008

From Being a Berliner 1


And so we come to the event that reignited my blogging desire. Two weeks ago, I went to my first gig in Berlin for over a year, to see the lead singer/pianist of the Dresden Dolls, Amanda Palmer, touring her first solo album, Who killed Amanda Palmer?. Though the use of the word "solo" has perhaps never been so loose...

I arrived fashionably late, not expecting to have missed a great deal by 9:30 as doors were only 9 o'clock. To my surprise, I opened the door to the concert hall rammed full of people, packed in like sardines, staring unmoving and silently at...a cellist. For those who don't know, Knaack is smallish rock club in downtown Prenzlauer Berg, owned by none other than Rammstein, Germany's biggest metal superstars. I'd been there for a few gigs before, but I'd never seen anything quite like this, and nor would I have expected to. Then suddenly, just as I was about to track back to the bar for some pre-crowd-hustling refreshment, the room erupted with applause. The last strains of the cello had faded, and the woman on stage was taking her final bow, though that was not the last we were to see of her that evening. I had just caught the end of Zoe Keating's set, solo cello artist and backing musician to Amanda Palmer.

As I stood at the back of the small hall sipping my beer, the waves of a lounge version of Nirvana's "Smells Like Teen Spirit" drifted out over the PA, and I took a moment to marvel at the eclectic audience this unusal concert had attracted. Angsty 16 year-old girls mixed with punters who could quite easily pass for their parents, with a few metalheads and middle-aged accountants completing the pack. It was a fair bet that a lot of them had never set foot in the little rock club before, but that didn't seem to bother them or anyone else. Indeed it was the perfect backdrop for what would turn out to be one of the oddest, most original concerts I've ever experienced.

Next up on the bill was the main support band, New Zealand's Battle Circus. The name may sound pretentious, but it couldn't be more fitting. Taking to the stage in a wave of sonic textures, the four-piece launched into a set of distorted atmospheric soundscapes, punctuated and at times tempered by wailing guitars and dynamic piano, and driven by hypnotic bass and energetic drums. They stated their intent from the beginning, an extended instrumental intro setting the mood before the opening vocal line came in after five minutes. The kiwis then proceeded to power through the entirety of their debut album, The Half-Light Symphony, taking the audience through forty minutes of crushing post-apocalyptic psychedelia before finishing on their sinister and addictive first single, Send in the Clones. It's unlikely that they were known to many of the audience beforehand, myself included, but the orchestral theatre they created engendered one of the best responses I've seen for a support band anywhere, and was an appropriate preparation for what was to come.

And barely had Battle Circus cleared their equipment away before Amanda Palmer's manager/compere for the night stepped on stage to introduce the lady herself. The lights went down, and the striking figure of Zoe Keating strode back on to the stage as the backing track started, accompanied by violinist Lyndon Chester. As the music rose to a crescendo, a troupe of dancers lifted a veiled, "dead" Amanda from the front row of the audience to her position behind the keyboard to rapturous applause. Finally, the singer's face was unveiled, and the crashing chords of album opener "Astronaut" rang out across the hall. Despite being behind a piano for most of the show and suffering with a broken foot (an injury sustained ealier on the tour in Belfast), Amanda Palmer maintained a lively and varied performance for the entire set, hair flailing and movement around the stage aided by the dancers, Australia's Danger Ensemble. Despite possessing a voice which often conveys the impression that its owner is on the verge of madness, she proved herself so be an intelligent and eloquent speaker, engaging and entertaining the audience between songs in both English and German, explaining the meaning behind some of her songs and even allowing for an "Ask Amanda" question time session.

The set was also varied, with energetic numbers such as the opening song and Guitar Hero contrasted with quieter numbers like Ampersand, which showcased Palmer's capacity for dulcet vocal tones as well as manic hysteria. The solo songs were also interspersed with a couple of Dresden Dolls numbers and also some covers, most notably a Regina Spektor number and Piraten Jenny from Brecht's Drei Groschen Oper. A particular highlight was Coin-operated Boy, which the members of Danger Ensemble complemented with an elaborate mime performance to match the lyrics, even mingling amongst the audience during the song. The dancers were the perfect foil for Amanda's theatrical "punk cabaret", and were rewarded in time-honoured street performance fashion at the end with a "passing of the hat" to fund their presence on the tour, the restricted budget for Palmer's first solo tour too restricted to cover them completely.

The evening ended with a rendition of Bon Jovi's Living on a Prayer, for which the entire cast for the evening took to the stage together, including Jason Webley, the opening support act who I had missed. As the performers poked fun at Bon Jovi's lyrical contradictions, the audience was left with a feeling of almost having become part of Amanda Palmer's cast of friends themselves, having grown closer to her through her music and friendly demeanour throughout. And if the Dresden Dolls singer performs like this everywhere she goes, her music will touch many more across the world yet.

Sunday 19 October 2008

A New Start

From Being a Berliner 1

From Being a Berliner 1

Well, it's been a long time coming, but eventually I've got back to blogging again. A year and a half ago, I had just finished my year as an Erasmus student (or "Erasmouse") in Sweden and Germany (see http://blogspot.com/iansnorthernsaga). It was an experience that changed the way I saw and thought about many things, not least where I saw my life going.

My final year back at university in Sheffield in the UK was a lot more fun than any I'd had before, mainly due to my new openness to the world and at times near-suicidal determination to cram my life full of as many fun and varied activities as possible. I took up circus activities, learned to bake, had a reunion with my band which turned out to be probably the best gig we ever played, began to learn keyboard and even became a mentor for our own little group of Erasmice in Sheffield. On top of all this, I still somehow packed in a ridiculous amount of study and came out of university with a good grade.

By this point, I'd realised that I wanted a lifestyle where I could keep the flow of new activities, places and people going, and that, for the first time, I had a completely free and open choice as to what I would do next. So I did what any sane, travel-orientated, young German graduate would do. I moved to Berlin.

Five months studying in Berlin on my year abroad had convinced me that there was no better place in the world for me at this point in my life. It's a vibrant, modern city, full of history and yet, probably because of its past, entirely unafraid to embrace new ideas, cults and trends in a way I am yet to see replicated in any other city. Over the past two months, I've been to beach bars and Vietnamese coffee houses, whiled away lazy hours playing zombie-orientated board games in the local Ludothek and even got myself a bike, something I never thought I'd do after my friend Holly's somewhat hair-raising attempts to convert me by cycling me around Munich.

I'm working as a translator, and living with two very lovely German girls by the names of Dani and Cynthia in a spacious flat in Friedrichshain. My office is next to the Ministry for the Interior in Tiergarten, right on the bend of the river Spree, meaning it's a direct S-Bahn ride or a nice 45-minute cycle to work, through the centre of historic Berlin and along the river. I'm developing a nicely-sized group of new international friends, but have also been somewhat blessed in that my ravings about Berlin over the past year have brought some of my old friends from Sheffield along with me. Unfortunately, my old housemate Clarissa's internship here ended this week, and she left to return to the UK yesterday, but I'm still glad to have Holly around, as well as Bella, my former Swedish speaking assistant, and the assorted other accquaintances giving me a connection to my old life in Sheffield. On top of this, I'm meeting more Germans than I did as an Erasmus student, and expect this to continue the longer I live here.

For the forseeable future, I'll be using this space to document my life in this fine city. Being as I actually live in Berlin now, this is going to be less of a travel blog than my previous effort, and more a place to record the new memories I'm making here. I'm going for a less event-orientated approach, supplementing writing on individual escapades with concert and music reviews and general reflections on life in one of Europe's most vital cities. I hope my latest foray into amateur journalism provides as much entertainment for those reading as it does for me writing it.
From Being a Berliner 1