A tale of two cities

From Berlin General

It's been a while since my last post. Indeed, anyone pondering my whereabouts could be forgiven for assuming I'd gone into hibernation. The past few months have been hard, cold and barren. Grey skies dulled out the sunlight, inhospitable temperatures dissuaded many from venturing outside, and the streets I know so well were replaced by an icy tundra which negated most forms of travel not involving the use of grappling hooks. This was winter in Berlin.

Complaining about the weather is a great British tradition renowned the world over, and while I'm not usually one to indulge clichés, old habits do sometimes die hard. I've now lived in Berlin for a total of twelve months of two periods. For the majority of that time I have rarely experienced anything but sun, joy and a vibrant city. On any given night or day, throngs of people from all around the world who have made this their home could be seen enjoying the culinary and cultural charms on offer, not to mention the nightlife. The past 3 of those months, however, have been an entirely different experience.

It began one weekend towards the end of November. Temperatures had been dropping for a while, but no-one expected the sudden snow storm that fell on weekend revellers in the early hours of that Sunday morning. These warning signs were quickly forgotten in the rush to the Christmas period and the festivities of the New Year, though this only served to make the change seem more sudden. Once the last firework had faded, it left behind a monotone sky smothered with a seemingly impenetrable quilt of brooding cloud. The clouds brought with them snow, the initial joy of which disguised the troublesome icy landscape that was to be its legacy. Despite their best attempts, the authorities failed to deal sufficiently with this menace. The grey in the heavens seemed to drain the colour from the people and the streets below, robbing the city of its very lifeblood. This was not the Berlin I knew.

I soon began to realise just how much my joy at living in Berlin relied on being outside. No longer could I ride my bike gleefully around the parks and sights; even if the ground had been more suitable, the monuments and greenery seemed to have taken on a deathly hue which robbed them of any aesthetic value. The depression seemed to have got to everyone. Bar rush hour and the Saturday shopping crowds, the city had become nothing short of a ghost town. Those who did tread the streets did so out of necessity, not due to any voluntary decision. But even the S-Bahns these winter zombies piled onto seemed more empty than ever. The phone lines were as good as dead - even if there was somebody still alive, there was little use us trying to persuade each other to venture outside.

It seemed to last for years, but then suddenly, as quickly as it had come, the gloom was gone. A ray of sunlight tentatively pierced the cloud cover, almost as if it were afraid of burning the faces of the undead below who had become so unaccustomed to it. The gaps in the cloud quickly filled with blue and, in the space of a weekend, the winter was gone. Traces of its icy touches remained for a couple of weeks, but the golden rays from above had brought with them home, and we knew it was almost over. People rushed from their homes to claim back their city from the forces of nature which had lain siege to it. Restaurants and cafés reinstated their outdoor seating, and slowly it began to fill with the hungry once more. People hungry not just for the fare on offer, but for life as they once knew it. The grey skies and biting winds began to seem like a fading nightmare, a bad dream which paled in the daylight.

The daylight has now regained its hold on Berlin, though for my part I shall find it hard to banish the foreboding memories of my first winter in the city. Whilst I had expected a colder climate to that in which I grew up, nothing could have prepared me for the complete change which swept across the capital, draining its vibrance and that of its inhabitants. Twelve months, and this city continues to surprise me.

But that, of course, is exactly why I love living here.



Thanks to Bella for photos! http://nordicflames.blogspot.com http://berlinleben.blogspot.com

Albums of the Year 2008

A little late, but here's my lowdown on the top 5 Albums of 2008. There are some albums I haven't actually got hold of yet, so they won't get a mention, but this is probably a blessing in disguise as the past year has been a very strong one in terms of new rock and metal music. Enjoy.

1. Avantasia - The Scarecrow | The first two albums from Edguy singer Tobias Sammet's solo project formed an ambitious and epic power metal opera which starred myriad legends from the genre, including Hansi Kürsch, Kai Hansen, Alex Holzwarth and Michael Kiske. Although the project itself was an incredible feat, save for a few stand-out tracks, neither album offered anything different which hadn't already been repeated ad infinitum by other artists. The Scarecrow is Sammet's coming-of-age, an insightful masterpiece combining the best elements of his earlier projects with a darker, more evocative side and a sound which, no doubt in part due to the input of producer and guitarist Sascha Paeth, pushes the boundaries of modern metal. Followed up by a spectacular arena tour in the summer, this is the album that will define the future of the genre.
   
2. Amanda Palmer - Who Killed Amanda Palmer? | Since the first Dresden Dolls album was released in 2003, singer and pianist Amanda Palmer has come on in leaps and bounds. The band's second album, Yes, Virginia showed more complex songwriting and a greater variety to Palmer's vocals, and her first solo effort continues this trend. The almost complete absence of drums reduces the madcap side of the Dolls' work, and allows Amanda's voice and piano more freedom, giving her the chance to write closer to the heart without entirely cutting out the theatricals. In a sense, the songs seem more mature, despite the fact that many of them were written before the Yes, Virginia material. All in all, this album displays a more intelligent and self-aware side of Amanda than we have seen before, whilst maintaining the unhinged edge to her voice and persona which made her so great in the first place.
   
3. Battle Circus - The Half-Light Symphony | A very promising debut from a band with one of the most pretentious names in history. The New Zealanders have been making their name on tour around Europe with Amanda Palmer, displaying excellent musicianship without ever taking anything away from the actual music. As it happens, the moniker couldn't be more appropriate - the album tempers a perfectly constructed 45 minute vision of nuclear holocaust with the sinister wit of a clown laughing as the big top burns. Refreshing and thought-provoking, with the right promotion this band could go far.
   
4. In Flames - A Sense of Purpose | If 2006's Come Clarity signalled the return of the Swedish metallers to their peak after 2 disappointing albums, then A Sense of Purpose has simply served to continue the trend. Although perhaps not as powerful in its statement as its predecessor (to older fans this will almost certainly be more of a grower than an immediate favourite), it has seen the band continue to steamroller across Europe, headlining major festivals along the way. In places it hints at a return to the softer, more mainstream approach which earned such critcism on Soundtrack to Your Escape, but these tendencies are tempered by a quality of riff and level of sophistacation which that album lacked. It seems to some extent that the band are still trying to perfect a new sound without pulling away too much from the roots that got them to where they are today, and if that's the case, this is definitely a step in the right direction.
   
5. Van Canto - Hero | If the world's (probably) only "hero metal a-capella" band hadn't made an impression on the European metal scene before, this album, coupled with a stunning live performance at Wacken Open Air 2008, should make people sit up and take notice. Made up of one drummer and five vocalists, share the singing of lyrics and instrumental parts between them, the record consists half of well-written and unashamedly cheesy power metal written by "lead guitarist" Stefan Schmidt, and half of covers of well-known classic metal and rock songs which showcase the band's talent. It's refreshing and ever more rare these days to see a band take such a radically different approach to music, and to hear them pull it off so well is even more satisfying. The only worry is not with the material itself, but that this could be an indication that bands feel they have to go to this kind of extent to get noticed, a situation which could lead to groups like Van Canto enjoying very short careers before being dropped when their "novelty value" wears off. But if anything can be done to prevent this, Hero has put Van Canto in the perfect position to take action.
   

Special Mention - Guns 'n' Roses - Chinese Democracy - I've not heard this myself yet, but it would be remiss of me to not congratulate Axl Rose (albeit with a smattering of sarcasm) on the release of his implausible maserpiece. After 14 years and 3 different line-ups, the man gets all he deserves with this. Read into that what you will...

10 things to do in Berlin

Happy New Year! I realise it's been a while since I last updated, and even longer since I've actually written anything about Berlin itself; I have to admit I've been somewhat busy actually being in it. But just for you lucky, lucky people, I've cooked up something special. Behold, a list of 10 great things to do in Berlin!


These are just 10 of the things I've enjoyed doing in my first few months here. If this all sounds terribly appealing, I would like to take this opportunity to inform you that you should live here. Just like everyone else :)

1. Cycle - Berlin is one of the best cities in the world to cycle in. Until a few months ago, I was terrified of the two-wheeled monstrosities, but in just one afternoon of biking around the main tourist sights, I was hooked. Thousands of cyclists pedal frantically (or annoyingly casually) around Berlin everyday, sometimes seeming like a law unto themselves, and whilst sceptical at first, it soon became apparent that joining them was far preferable to trying to survive them as a pedestrian. My cycle route to work now takes in the cathedral, the Brandenburg gate, a couple of winding paths through the giant Tiergarten park and a picturesque stretch of the River Spree, and I wouldn't change it for the world.
   
2. Be amazed by the transport system...then get lost on it - As in any major city, the inhabitants of Berlin rely heavily on public transport to get around. The difference between here and, say, London, is that here, it actually works. At practically any time of morning, noon, or night, there are S-Bahn, U-Bahn, tram or bus routes running to practically all destinations withing the inner city borders. Once you've familiarised yourself with the U- and S-Bahn network plan (or beforehand, if you're feeling particuarly daring), you can start to abuse this system by simply hopping on a tube for a while and seeing where you end up. It's a great way not only to discover new parts of of the city, but at the same time to immerse yourself in the lifeblood of Germany's vibrant capital.
   
3. Catch a show - The complex array of threads which make up Berlin's colourful history have resulted in the city being extraordinarily open to a wide variety of cultural entertainment. Since my arrival in August the British Ukelele Orchestra have swept through town, while the now-legendary Blue Man Group have continued their epic run at the BlueMax Theatre. In addition to this, the list of diverse rock groups to play across the city is no less befits a major capital. For those who prefer their shows a little more sophisticated, there's always a good selection of jazz concerts on any given night, and the Berliner Ensemble offers a different Bertolt Brecht play each month, amongst other high-quality pieces.
   
4. Have Sunday brunch - Brunch in Berlin is something of an institution, especially in the suburbs which have boomed since the fall of the wall. Every Sunday (and, in many places, every Saturday too), cafes and bars in Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg, Neukölln and Prenzlauer Berg open from 11 am to offer their sumptuous buffets to throngs of hungry locals. The best offer an all-you-can-eat buffet encompassing between 20 and 40 breakfast and lunch dishes, including varieties of eggs and omlettes, continental-style rolls with hams and cheese, a selection of salads and pasta dishes and 4 or 5 hot main courses, often including lasagne or some kind of cheese and vegetable bake. Prices range from 5-13 €, and for the more popular restaurants it might be advisable to book, but for what could well be the only meal you'll need to eat all day, it's well worth it.
   
5. Go out drinking - Berlin has a reputation as one of the party capitals of the world, and not without good reason. The healthy backpacker and exchange student population has contributed to a boom in this area as the city has modernised, and the culural diversity offered around the different districts has ensured that there's something to suit everyone's tastes. Electro and techno are the biggest crowd-pullers, with clubs such as Watergate achieving worldwide recognition as pioneers of this scene in the early nineties, though Berlin is also establishing itself as a hotbase for indie and alternative music.Whatever your music of choice, with no restriction on opening hours, the party will always go on all night long, wherever you are.
   
6. Something new - Over the years, Berlin has seen so much that almost nothing seems unusual here any more. Nearly anything you or anyone else can think of exists or can be done in Berlin, and if it doesn't already exist, then it probably won't be long before it does. Since moving here, two of my personal favourite haunts have been the Ludothek just around the corner from my flat (a cafe dedicated to playing board games, with an astonishingly wide selection) and the poetry evenings held by Rakete 2000, a local light-hearted group who intersperse their delightful musings on life with amusing musical interludes. If I'd been told before moving here that I'd be spending my time listening to poetry and playing board games, I'd probably have questioned my decision, but the lifestyle in Berlin embraces and imbues in people the desire for the new to such an extent that I now can't imagine my life without these activities.
7. While away the afternoon in a park - The German capital is blessed with a multitude of parks in which you can pass the time on a summer's afternoon by reading, playing Indiaca, barbequing or simply being. Each of the districts has a park or parks of its own, but the pick of the bunch is always going to be the massive Tiergarten in the middle of the city, which stretches from just past the Brandenburg Gate deep into the suburb of Charlottenburg in the old west. Home to the House for the Cultures of the World and the Reichstag, Tiergarten is a green paradise in which you can escape from the hectic hubbub of city life whilst stil being in the centre of it. And all the trees are exactly the same height, too.
8. Absorb some history - From the modern to the more ancient, history is all around you wheverever you go in Berlin. Not only does the city offer some amazing museums, including the Pergamon, which houses one of the ancient gates of Babylon, but it also bears the scars which tell the tales of some of the most important events of the twentieth century. To live amongst the remnants of the wall, walk streets which still bear the names of some of the most important socialist philosophers and see in day-to-day life the bullet holes from the battle which ended the Second World War is an amazing feeling, and this singular closeness to such incredible events has made Berlin the city it is today.
9. Learn to speak the local dialect - One of the more endearing characteristics of the natives of Berlin is the way they approach their mother tongue. As a northern Englishman often burdened with prejudices based on my own accent, and as a languages graduate, I can't help but be fascinated by Berlinerisch and the way it's often so unintelligible even to other Germans. Also, there's no way of making yourself feel quite as at home in a new place as by blending in with the locals, and in Berlin this is just as much a case of knowing your "Dreiviertel elf" from your "viertel zwölf" as it is of not referring to yourself as a jam doughnut.
   
10. Go to to the market - Berlin's cosmopolitanism is reflected every bit as much in its market culture as in its architecture and restaurants. On various days throughout the week, and even more so at weekends, every little square in every suburb is filled with wooden stalls offering all manner of foodstuffs and clothing. The real fun, however, starts on Sundays, where some of the city's most notable squares become the location for the spectacular flea markets, offering all kinds of trinkets and hidden treasures, as well as modern craftwork and, most importantly, bicycles. And to top it all, the winter season is only ever officially open in Berlin, as across Germany, when the Christmas markets set up and the Glühwein begins to flow.
    

Gig Review: Die Apokalyptischen Reiter, Kesselhaus, Berlin, 26.10.2008

From Gigs

From Gigs

There's something strange about German Metal. Of all the places I've been, out of all the metal fans I've met, none seem to have such a penchant for hard music from their own country than the Germans. The view looking in from abroad may be restricted to household names such as the Scropions, or, more recently, power-metal giants like Blind Guardian and Gamma Ray, but there's a lot more too it than that. And it's metal not only from their own country, but sung in their own language, that the Germans really go for. Perhaps it's something to do with the taboo on patriotism since the end of the Second World War, music having been - up until recently and to some extent still today - one of the few outlets for feeling good about their heritage accessible to young Germans. Whatever the reason, German-language metal has a strong cult following over here - and head of that cult are Die Apokalyptischen Reiter.

An imposing name ("The Horsemen of the Apocalypse", in case you hadn't guessed), but nothing less than fitting. If there's one thing Die Apokalyptischen Reiter do well, it's theatricals, and this show was no exception. As a cover of deep red lighting and a thick cloud of dry ice engulfed the stage, a chorus of cheers and cries rippled through the crowd in expectation. Then as if by magic, the blood-red mist parted to reveal the elevated figure of lead singer Fuchs, and the opening riff to Revolution burst out of the house PA. From that point on, it was non-stop. The Reiter rocked through their setlist at a frantic pace, covering all the favourites such as Friede sei mit dir and Reitermania to noisy approval from their followers.

From Gigs

It was clear from the reaction throughout the set just how fanatic most of the audience were about the band, and every opportunity offered for crowd participation was enthusiastically taken up by a long line of metalheads of all ages. Though the small venue lacked the spectacular pyrotechnics on show when I last saw the band at Wacken Open Air 2007, the atmosphere was just as electric, and I sincerely doubt that a single member of the audience went home disappointed (especially not the girl who was invited on stage for the band to sing her happy birthday!). If ever there was a band made for performing live, it was Die Apokalyptischen Reiter. No matter where you're from, whether you like metal, or whether you even understand German, go and see them. Now. For tomorrow could be the end of the world...

Gig Review: In Flames, Columbiahalle, Berlin

From Being a Berliner 1

It's a busy month for gigs in Berlin. On Saturday night, the Columbiahalle was packed for one of the cities most eagerly-awaited concerts, Swedish metal giants In Flames. The posters had been up all over the city for months, and the anticipation was obvious from the crowd reaction when opening act Sonic Syndicate name-dropped the headliners during their set. We arrived just after they had begun, and though I've never found much to make them appeal to me on CD, I have to say I was impressed with their stage performance. Not a single member seemed to ever stop moving as they careered through their set of radio-friendly metal, and the entire band - comprising two vocalists, two guitarists, bass and drums - was tight and note-perfect.

Next up were Gojira, a French metal band and easily the heaviest offering of the evening. Though not the kind of music one would expect to lend itself to live performance, their ominous, apocalyptic chords, driven by artillery-force percussion, left a lasting impression on the audience, as attested by the business of their merch stand after the show.

However, there could be no doubting who the majority of fans were there to see. Over the past few years, In Flames have risen to the top of the European metal scene, headlining festivals all over the continent. Currently touring their ninth studio album, they are arguably a band very much on top of their game. And so as the imposing shadows of the five-piece filled the white screen draped in the front of the stage, accompanied by the opening tones of The Chosen Pesimist, the band's titanic appearance could not have been more apt. And nor could the performance which followed.

From the moment the screen fell away at the peak of the opener, In Flames took the audience on a journey that more than fulfilled expectations. In front of a massive screen giving extra graphic representation to their songs, the band gave a consumate performance of melodic death metal which shows why they are still kings of the sub- genre they played such a great part in establishing. The lack of material from their earlier albums may have been a gripe for older fans, but the strength of the set without these songs served to emphasise how relevant the Swedes remain. Of course, crowd-pleasers such as Pinball Map and Only for the Weak received the usual rapturous reception, but the reaction to the final song, Take this Life from 2006's Come Clarity was more than equal in volume. An exemplary show from one of the leading lights of the modern metal scene.

Gig review: Amanda Palmer + Friends, Knaack Klub, 12. October 2008

From Being a Berliner 1

And so we come to the event that reignited my blogging desire. Two weeks ago, I went to my first gig in Berlin for over a year, to see the lead singer/pianist of the Dresden Dolls, Amanda Palmer, touring her first solo album, Who killed Amanda Palmer?. Though the use of the word "solo" has perhaps never been so loose...

I arrived fashionably late, not expecting to have missed a great deal by 9:30 as doors were only 9 o'clock. To my surprise, I opened the door to the concert hall rammed full of people, packed in like sardines, staring unmoving and silently at...a cellist. For those who don't know, Knaack is smallish rock club in downtown Prenzlauer Berg, owned by none other than Rammstein, Germany's biggest metal superstars. I'd been there for a few gigs before, but I'd never seen anything quite like this, and nor would I have expected to. Then suddenly, just as I was about to track back to the bar for some pre-crowd-hustling refreshment, the room erupted with applause. The last strains of the cello had faded, and the woman on stage was taking her final bow, though that was not the last we were to see of her that evening. I had just caught the end of Zoe Keating's set, solo cello artist and backing musician to Amanda Palmer.

As I stood at the back of the small hall sipping my beer, the waves of a lounge version of Nirvana's "Smells Like Teen Spirit" drifted out over the PA, and I took a moment to marvel at the eclectic audience this unusal concert had attracted. Angsty 16 year-old girls mixed with punters who could quite easily pass for their parents, with a few metalheads and middle-aged accountants completing the pack. It was a fair bet that a lot of them had never set foot in the little rock club before, but that didn't seem to bother them or anyone else. Indeed it was the perfect backdrop for what would turn out to be one of the oddest, most original concerts I've ever experienced.

Next up on the bill was the main support band, New Zealand's Battle Circus. The name may sound pretentious, but it couldn't be more fitting. Taking to the stage in a wave of sonic textures, the four-piece launched into a set of distorted atmospheric soundscapes, punctuated and at times tempered by wailing guitars and dynamic piano, and driven by hypnotic bass and energetic drums. They stated their intent from the beginning, an extended instrumental intro setting the mood before the opening vocal line came in after five minutes. The kiwis then proceeded to power through the entirety of their debut album, The Half-Light Symphony, taking the audience through forty minutes of crushing post-apocalyptic psychedelia before finishing on their sinister and addictive first single, Send in the Clones. It's unlikely that they were known to many of the audience beforehand, myself included, but the orchestral theatre they created engendered one of the best responses I've seen for a support band anywhere, and was an appropriate preparation for what was to come.

And barely had Battle Circus cleared their equipment away before Amanda Palmer's manager/compere for the night stepped on stage to introduce the lady herself. The lights went down, and the striking figure of Zoe Keating strode back on to the stage as the backing track started, accompanied by violinist Lyndon Chester. As the music rose to a crescendo, a troupe of dancers lifted a veiled, "dead" Amanda from the front row of the audience to her position behind the keyboard to rapturous applause. Finally, the singer's face was unveiled, and the crashing chords of album opener "Astronaut" rang out across the hall. Despite being behind a piano for most of the show and suffering with a broken foot (an injury sustained ealier on the tour in Belfast), Amanda Palmer maintained a lively and varied performance for the entire set, hair flailing and movement around the stage aided by the dancers, Australia's Danger Ensemble. Despite possessing a voice which often conveys the impression that its owner is on the verge of madness, she proved herself so be an intelligent and eloquent speaker, engaging and entertaining the audience between songs in both English and German, explaining the meaning behind some of her songs and even allowing for an "Ask Amanda" question time session.

The set was also varied, with energetic numbers such as the opening song and Guitar Hero contrasted with quieter numbers like Ampersand, which showcased Palmer's capacity for dulcet vocal tones as well as manic hysteria. The solo songs were also interspersed with a couple of Dresden Dolls numbers and also some covers, most notably a Regina Spektor number and Piraten Jenny from Brecht's Drei Groschen Oper. A particular highlight was Coin-operated Boy, which the members of Danger Ensemble complemented with an elaborate mime performance to match the lyrics, even mingling amongst the audience during the song. The dancers were the perfect foil for Amanda's theatrical "punk cabaret", and were rewarded in time-honoured street performance fashion at the end with a "passing of the hat" to fund their presence on the tour, the restricted budget for Palmer's first solo tour too restricted to cover them completely.

The evening ended with a rendition of Bon Jovi's Living on a Prayer, for which the entire cast for the evening took to the stage together, including Jason Webley, the opening support act who I had missed. As the performers poked fun at Bon Jovi's lyrical contradictions, the audience was left with a feeling of almost having become part of Amanda Palmer's cast of friends themselves, having grown closer to her through her music and friendly demeanour throughout. And if the Dresden Dolls singer performs like this everywhere she goes, her music will touch many more across the world yet.

A New Start

From Being a Berliner 1

From Being a Berliner 1

Well, it's been a long time coming, but eventually I've got back to blogging again. A year and a half ago, I had just finished my year as an Erasmus student (or "Erasmouse") in Sweden and Germany (see http://blogspot.com/iansnorthernsaga). It was an experience that changed the way I saw and thought about many things, not least where I saw my life going.

My final year back at university in Sheffield in the UK was a lot more fun than any I'd had before, mainly due to my new openness to the world and at times near-suicidal determination to cram my life full of as many fun and varied activities as possible. I took up circus activities, learned to bake, had a reunion with my band which turned out to be probably the best gig we ever played, began to learn keyboard and even became a mentor for our own little group of Erasmice in Sheffield. On top of all this, I still somehow packed in a ridiculous amount of study and came out of university with a good grade.

By this point, I'd realised that I wanted a lifestyle where I could keep the flow of new activities, places and people going, and that, for the first time, I had a completely free and open choice as to what I would do next. So I did what any sane, travel-orientated, young German graduate would do. I moved to Berlin.

Five months studying in Berlin on my year abroad had convinced me that there was no better place in the world for me at this point in my life. It's a vibrant, modern city, full of history and yet, probably because of its past, entirely unafraid to embrace new ideas, cults and trends in a way I am yet to see replicated in any other city. Over the past two months, I've been to beach bars and Vietnamese coffee houses, whiled away lazy hours playing zombie-orientated board games in the local Ludothek and even got myself a bike, something I never thought I'd do after my friend Holly's somewhat hair-raising attempts to convert me by cycling me around Munich.

I'm working as a translator, and living with two very lovely German girls by the names of Dani and Cynthia in a spacious flat in Friedrichshain. My office is next to the Ministry for the Interior in Tiergarten, right on the bend of the river Spree, meaning it's a direct S-Bahn ride or a nice 45-minute cycle to work, through the centre of historic Berlin and along the river. I'm developing a nicely-sized group of new international friends, but have also been somewhat blessed in that my ravings about Berlin over the past year have brought some of my old friends from Sheffield along with me. Unfortunately, my old housemate Clarissa's internship here ended this week, and she left to return to the UK yesterday, but I'm still glad to have Holly around, as well as Bella, my former Swedish speaking assistant, and the assorted other accquaintances giving me a connection to my old life in Sheffield. On top of this, I'm meeting more Germans than I did as an Erasmus student, and expect this to continue the longer I live here.

For the forseeable future, I'll be using this space to document my life in this fine city. Being as I actually live in Berlin now, this is going to be less of a travel blog than my previous effort, and more a place to record the new memories I'm making here. I'm going for a less event-orientated approach, supplementing writing on individual escapades with concert and music reviews and general reflections on life in one of Europe's most vital cities. I hope my latest foray into amateur journalism provides as much entertainment for those reading as it does for me writing it.

From Being a Berliner 1